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Both of the most popular Mt. Whitney rock-climbing routes,
the East Buttress and the East Face of Mt. Whitney are at a height of
about 1000 feet and take between 4 and 8 hours to complete. There are
some noticeable differences between the two that can leave climbers
torn over which to choose. The East Buttress has a more constant and
direct line, while the East Face’s route is more diverse and has
a more impressive history. Both of these classic routes are similar
in their difficulty level.
The East Buttress route climbs a sustained arête featuring short
5.6 or 5.7 sections on nearly every pitch. There are 20-foot sections
of steep and exposed terrain between sections of ledgy climbing.
While the East Buttress is the most popular climb in the High Sierra,
and is arguably a better route, it lacks the famous history of the East
Face. This route, featured in Steve Roper and Allen Steck’s 50
Classic Climbs of North America, makes demanding traverses between long
sections of 3rd class. The exposure on this climb is intense, and the
route is only suitable for veteran 5.7 leaders. The climbing is moderate
for the most part, however, and extremely enjoyable. |
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